X18 Pocket Bike FAQs





4 Speed Manual Clutch 110 (107cc) Engine:

Other bikes offer 110cc engines, but not all of them are available with a manual clutch. The manual clutch will require a little more practice to drive, if you have never driven a manual clutch motorcycle or pocketbike before. It will also deliver more power than the automatic and semi-automatic (automatic clutch). It gives you the ability to release the clutch at a higher rpm to help with faster take-offs and wheelies.



4 Speed Manual Clutch 110 (107cc) Engine

EPA Approved: The newest X18s boast EPA approval. If you are going to try and register the X18, it can be considered a pro for the X18. There are other requirements, depending on state and local laws to register a vehicle, so don't assume it will automatically be street legal. It's up to you to know your local laws. The other benefit for an EPA approved bike is that it is a PCV system. PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation. A hose running from the crankcase vent to the intake manifold allows blow-by and crankcase gases to be burned. This helps reduce hydrocarbons entering the atmosphere.

EPA Approved Engine

Stock Speed: 50mph out of the box.  After proper break-in, you can expect speeds of 55-60mph.  The manufacturer specs state est. 65mph under ideal conditions.  You can definitely increase the speed by 10-30% with various modifications/upgrades.   Some examples are listed below.

Stock Speed of an X18 is 50mph

Size: Few people are too big for the X18.  Most riders are teenagers and adults ranging from 5'5" to 6'5" and weigh from 120-280lbs.  The X18 is the largest Super Pocket Bike available, and is twice the size of regular pocket bikes.  The frame is rated for 350lbs.  The X18 is shown here with a 5'9" 225lb rider.

X18 Comfort

X18 R/Nitro: A common misconception about the X18 is that the R and Nitro models are faster. In reality, they are just named different, and have some R/R-Nitro stickers on them. This is simply a marketing strategy implemented by retailers.  The manufacturer only makes one model of X18. If you like the way the bike looks with a Nitro sticker on it, and the price is right, give it a shot. Don't bother paying much more for one though, unless you really want those decals.

X18 R / Nitro ?

X18 Super Pocket Bike Videos:

Not all of these are stock bikes, but they can show you what the X18 is capable of with a little (or a lot of) work.


If you decide you want to make a video of your new X18 in action, please forward it to getminis@super-pocket-bike-scooter.com and we can feature it on our site...show us what you can do!

Before your first ride: Once you get your new X18, there are some things you should do before you ride .

-Unpack it, check for damage, and assemble it as instructed above.   Assembly is essentially minimal…just requires adjustment of the handlebars and a few minor tweaks of the wrench/screwdriver.

-Drain the shipping oil from the engine, and replace it with good-quality petroleum based motorcycle oil.

-Check the pressure in both tires. Some bikes have a plate on the body or frame that tells the recommended pressure. Most tires also have a max PSI on the sidewall. Most riders use around 30-32psi.

-Check the essential nuts and bolts, and Loctite them if you desire. Check the handlebars, wheels, brakes, exhaust mount, engine mounts, etc... These bikes are assembled at the factory, but for your safety, you are responsible for performing a complete safety check and making sure all of the essentials are tight. If anything comes loose due to vibration while riding, there is no warranty coverage for damage.

-Find the fuse holder on your bike, and be sure there is a good fuse in it. Some bikes are shipped without the fuse installed.   Be sure to install it or your bike will not start.  Check the baggy with your manual if it is not installed.

-Put a little bit of premium unleaded fuel in the tank. Take a look at the fuel line going from the tank to the filter to the carburetor. Make sure no gas is leaking. If it is, secure the clamps, or replace hoses, as necessary. If your bike is leak free, fill it up.

-Familiarize yourself with the bike. Sit on the bike. The left lever on the handlebar is your clutch lever. The right lever is your front brake. The lever by your right foot is the rear brake. The shifter is near your left foot.

-Insert the key into the ignition, and turn it to the on position. Your gear indicator should read "0" meaning the bike is in Neutral. Hold the clutch lever, set the choke, and press the electric start button. Verify that the bike is in neutral, and release the clutch.

-Roll the bike forward slowly with your legs. Verify that the front and rear brakes work.

-Try your headlight, turn signals, tail light, horn, etc...

-Put on your safety gear (helmet, pads, gloves, leathers).

-Hold the clutch in and shift through the gears to familiarize yourself with the shift pattern.

-Hold in the clutch and shift into first gear (1). Slowly release the clutch and ease into the throttle. Do this a few times, so you can get used to the clutch.

If everything is working properly, you are suited up in your safety gear, and you are familiar with the clutch and other controls, you should be ready to take your first ride. Remember to take it easy at first. Once you get used to the bike, you can gradually speed up. Above all...BE SAFE.



Starting your X18 put it in neutral pull the choke button up and turn it to the right (so it engages and stays up until the engine is warm) turn on the key on flip the red toggle switch on the right handlebar to the ON position (Off has the X through the symbol, On has no X) pull in the clutch lever and then push the YELLOW electric start button (has a little lightning symbol in it) which is under the red toggle switch. Only hold for 1-2 seconds. That should turn the engine over. Be careful...the battery has only enough juice to attempt this a few times...if you do it too often, you will completely discharge the battery (it needs to run and fully charge the battery). You may need to purchase a 12 Volt charger to fully trickle charge the battery. If you can't get it electric started, do the same steps as above, but do not hold in the clutch lever, and then kickstart it (not too vigorously). Once you get it started, let the engine warm up for 3-5 minutes before letting the choke knob go back in to the down position. The bike is fully warmed up if it stays running with the choke in (off).

Restriction: Some bikes come with restrictors, but most do not. The manufacturer does not note on the crate which bikes have restrictors and which don't.  Restrictors are most commonly devices that restrict the carburetor from opening all the way. Take a look at the article at the bottom, which discusses two common styles of restrictors*

Engine Break-In: Some people believe that to properly break-in the bike, you should be easy on it for about 3 tanks of fuel, or leave the restrictors (if equipped) in place. Others believe the best method is to run it like you will want to run it (if you plan to run it hard, break it in hard). Both methods actually work, but the manufacturer recommends a gradual break-in period.   Please review this in the manual (called the grind-in period). Choose the one that you feel is right for you, but know that the warranty only applies if the bike is broken in according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Why do routine maintenance? This vehicle is a motorized vehicle.  Just like your car, it will perform better if you perform routine maintenance.  There are a few things you should do on a regular basis to keep your bike in good working order:

Oil Change: Change the oil at least once a month, more often if you are logging many miles, especially in dusty environments. Simply put, you cannot change your oil too often.

You also need to choose quality motorcycle oil for your bike. Regular automotive engine oil is not recommended. Motorcycle oils are formulated to work with wet clutches, like these bikes have. Automotive oil can cause the clutches to slip, resulting in a severe loss of power in some cases. There are many different motorcycle oils available in petroleum based, and fully synthetic varieties. Be sure to use petroleum-based oil for the first few tanks, no matter what type of oil you plan to run afterwards. 10w30 and 10w40 synthetic motorcycle oils are the most popular choices for this style of engine.

Air Filter: You should check your air filter every few oil changes. If it is dirty or airflow appears to be obstructed, it should be replaced.

Spark Plug: Consider pulling the spark plug out at every oil change. You can then read, re-gap, and replace it, if necessary. There is a great link below to illustrate what you are looking for when you read the plug. If your plug is worn or fouled, replace it. If the plug is still in good condition, re-gap and re-install it. Do not gap iridium plugs, they come pre-gapped. Other plugs should be gapped to .024-.028 inches.


Chain: Check the tension of your chain, and adjust it if necessary, every oil change or every other oil change. The chain should have some play in it, but not excessive play. Try to adjust the chain so that it will move about 1/2 inch up or down. Be sure to keep your chain lubricated with chain oil as well. If it becomes worn, replace it.

Carburetor and Throttle Assembly: The carburetor and throttle assembly should be checked every other oil change. Pull the throttle and make sure the carburetor is opening properly. Look for excess dirt and grease in the carburetor, and clean with carb cleaner if needed. Make sure your throttle cable isn't frayed. Check the screws that hold the bowl onto the carburetor. Adjust if necessary. The following links contain some very useful information, pertaining to carburetors.



Tires: Check your tire pressure at every oil change, and any time you can see or feel a difference in the tires. Unless you are using a racing slick, replace the tires when your tread wears down.

Brakes: Take a look at your brakes every time you change the oil. Make sure the levers are firm. Look at the brake pads, and make sure they are not down to the metal or close to it. Push the bike and hold the brakes. Most bikes will drag the tire. Replace, bleed, or adjust your brakes as necessary.

Fuel Filter: Have a look at the fuel filter often, and make sure it isn't dirty or clogged. Replace if needed.

Screws, Nuts, Bolts: Check over the essential nuts, bolts, and screws on a regular basis. Use loctite blue if loose bolts or screws become a recurring problem. If you are really motivated, consider taking your fasteners to a local hardware store. Replace the stock fasteners with hardened, stainless, or any quality pieces you prefer. Some local stores even carry a selection of chrome fasteners if you want to trick out your ride.


Bearings: You should check the bearings from time to time. Spin your wheels to assure they operate smoothly. Turn your handlebars to check for play. If they turn too easily, you may need to tighten the forks, or check/replace the bearings inside.

Battery: Be sure to keep your battery charged. Your bike's battery will self-charge while running, but may discharge if left standing for prolonged periods.

What modifications can you make to your bike?

The stock X18 is fast, and has plenty of power...and is more than adequate for most riders.  However, there are alway some of you out there who want to push the limits.  If this describes you, and you want to turn your bike into a 90mph monster, read on.

There are quite a few options for increasing performance. You can change gearing, engine upgrades, change to a larger engine, and more. The trick is to decide what you want, and what your mechanical ability will allow you to do.

One of the nice things about Super Pocket Bikes is that they are relatively easy to work on, and a great way to learn about small engines and motorcycles, and do so inexpensively.  If you have never worked on a bike before, making modifications to your bike can be fun and rewarding.

After you have purchased your X18 Super Pocket Bike from us, we will provide you with several great links where you can find high-performance aftermarket parts and engine upgrades.

Sprockets: There are two sprockets that drive your bike: the front (counter) sprocket and the rear sprocket. The number of teeth on each of these sprockets determines a gear ratio. For example, say your bike has a 14 tooth front sprocket, and a 28 tooth rear sprocket. Divide the rear sprocket by the front sprocket to see a numerical gear ratio. 28 divided by 14 equals 2. Your gear ratio is 2.00:1.

If you have a gear ratio of 2.00:1, the counter sprocket must rotate 2 times in order to rotate the rear sprocket 1 time. The more your front sprocket rotates to rotate the rear sprocket 1 turn, the more take-off power you will have. This comes with a price though. For example, when your engine is at a high RPM, it can turn the counter sprocket at 1,000 RPM (Revolutions Per Minute). If it takes 2 revolutions of the counter sprocket to rotate the rear sprocket 1 time, it is only achieving 500 RPM. Now, if you had a gear ratio of 1.00:1, the rear sprocket would be turning at 1000RPM.

Thus, you can turn the tire at different speeds with different gears.  Let's say your tire will travel 10 inches every time it rotates. If you turn that tire at 500RPM, in one minute, it will revolve 500 times, and travel 5,000 inches. If you use the other gear ratio, and turn the tire at 1,000 RPM, it will travel 10,000 inches. The farther it travels in one minute, the faster it is going.

In simple terms: The higher the gear ratio, the more take-off power you will have, and less top speed. The lower the gear ratio is, the less take-off power, but the greater the top speed. More teeth up front will lead to more top end-oriented gearing. Less teeth up front is a better set-up for take-off.  More teeth in the rear will increase take-off.  Less teeth in the rear will increase top end potential.

Here are some gear ratios you can achieve on your X18 Super Pocket Bike, and what sprockets will get you there. You have many options that will allow you to fine tune your bike to your specific needs.

3.17:1 - 12T front, 38T rear
2.71:1 - 14T front, 38T rear (Typical stock setup on X18s)
2.53:1 - 15T front, 38T rear
2.38:1 - 16T front, 38T rear
2.33:1 - 12T front, 28T rear
2.24:1 - 17T front, 38T rear
2.11:1 - 18T front, 38T rear
2.00:1 - 14T front, 28T rear
1.87:1 - 15T front, 28T rear
1.83:1 - 12T front, 22T rear
1.75:1 - 16T front, 28T rear
1.65:1 - 17T front, 28T rear
1.57:1 - 14T front, 22T rear
1.56:1 - 18T front, 28T rear
1.47:1 - 15T front, 22T rear
1.38:1 - 16T front, 22T rear
1.29:1 - 17T front, 22T rear
1.22:1 - 18T front, 22T rear

There are other important factors to consider before you run out and buy some sprockets. Gear ratios will give you an idea of what speed you are potentially capable of.  Your engine must have enough power to effectively use those gears, or you won't reach your full potential.

Gearing around 2.00:1 is an excellent choice for stock or nearly stock X18s and light to average weight riders (100-175 pounds). If you are a heavy rider, you may want to consider a numerically higher gear ratio. At 250 pound rider might be better off with something like a 2.33:1 or 2.38:1 gearing. If your bike is more powerful, you may be able to go numerically lower and see good results.

Ease of installation and low cost modification is another thing to take into consideration when choosing sprockets. For example, if you decide you want 2.00:1 gearing, you would need a 28T rear sprocket and your stock 14T front. If you moved up to 2.11:1 gearing with an 18T front and stock 38T rear, you wouldn't see much difference. Changing front sprockets tends to be cheaper and easier than swapping rear sprockets. Some more extreme sprocket changes also require adding or removing chain links. If price and difficulty are not issues to you, get whatever gearing you feel is the best. If you want to save time or money, you may want to search for information about similar gear ratios that may be cheaper or less difficult to install.

Engine Upgrades: There are tons of performance parts available for these 4 strokes. Some offer a great improvement, and some don't. Choosing your parts wisely will make the difference between money well spent and money wasted.

Iridium Spark Plug: Iridium plugs are a fairly inexpensive upgrade. They do not need to be gapped like other plugs. It is very unlikely that you will notice any significant increase in power. You may, however, have a bike that's easier to start, and more resistant to fouling. If you aren't on a tight budget, it might be worth the money.

Ignition Coil: Aftermarket ignition coils are intended to generate a stronger spark. Most of these engines will never need a stronger spark. You generally need a stronger spark when you drastically increase cylinder pressure, from things such as higher compression, turbo-charging, supercharging, etc... Under increased pressure, the spark can be blown out. Given the small gap of the spark plugs, unless your stock coil has seen better days, you should be fine until you build that high compression, nitrous 114cc or 137cc beast.

CDI: Aftermarket CDIs are advertised by some companies like they will turn your stock bike into a monster. This is probably not true. There are different styles of CDIs available. Some aftermarket CDIs only offer a change in the rev limit, others offer a timing advance, while others change the rev limit and the timing curve.  The addition of an aftermarket CDI can improve performance, but watch out for the marketing hype.

Exhaust Mods / Systems: Modifying or replacing the exhaust may increase HP. You may or may not be able to feel the effects of exhaust modification and aftermarket exhausts on a stock engine. You can usually see more of a gain on modified big bore engines. One thing you can certainly do is hear the difference. If you like to hear your engine, and you aren't in an area where neighbors will object, exhaust mods are nice. You can buy complete systems or buy a dirtbike muffler and weld it in place of the stock silencer/muffler.

Carburetor: Carb swaps can make a big difference on big bore engines; they also help on cammed engines a bit. If you really want to put a carb on your stock 110, 20mm carbs are a good choice.   22mm carbs will usually work well on modified 110s.  To learn more about carburetors, please check out the links above.

Intake: There are a few different intakes available for this engine. They make short, medium, and long runner intakes. There are also intakes that typically come with carbs to match up to them. If you really want the best bang for your buck, wait on an intake until you buy a carb, and then get an intake to match the size of the carb. You can also polish your stock intake, if you have the proper tools. You can use a Dremel tool. To get all the way inside the intake, you will need the flex shaft attachment. All you are trying to do while polishing the intake is smooth out the casting flaws. The intake needs to match up to the carb, heat spacer, head port, and gaskets. This will assure that the air/fuel mixture has a smooth clear path into the head.

Head: Aftermarket heads are available for these engines. You can also port and polish your stock head. The race heads are much better than porting and polishing your stock head. The race heads offer larger valves, and improved ports. Porting and polishing your stock head will make a very slight difference, and if done wrong, can cause a loss of power. It can make a difference on a stock engine; however it will do even more on a big bore setup with a cam.

If you choose to port and polish your stock head, pull the head off of the engine. It can be done with the head intact, but you run the risk of metal shavings and dust causing damage to your engine. It is much easier to get the head clean with it off of the engine.   Once you have the head off, you are mainly just cleaning up the ports. While you have the head off, make sure your intake port matches up to your intake. Before you re-assemble the engine, clean everything very well with carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner to assure no metal shavings or dust is left.

Head Breather Kit: Head breather kits are advertised to release pressure in the head, which will allegedly allow the engine to rev faster and make more horsepower. One problem with this is that the crankcase pressure is already vented, rendering this kit a waste of your cash.

Big Bore Kit: Big bore kits are an excellent choice. They can transform your mild 107cc (referred to as 110cc) engine into a high compression 114cc. It does this using a domed 54mm piston, and over-bored 54mm cylinder. This kit, by far, can make the biggest difference.   For anyone looking for more power, this is the mod to perform. It does require removal of the head, sleeve, and piston, so it is important to have some mechanical ability. When combined with a race head, cam, and 24-26mm carb, you can basically double the power of a stock 110.

Camshaft: Camshafts (cams) can change intake and exhaust valve lift, duration, and timing. These changes can allow more air and fuel in and out of the combustion chamber, change or extend the power band, and in some cases, alter compression. These changes can allow your engine to rev higher, and create more power. There are two common sizes for camshafts in these engines. Be sure to measure your cam before ordering one. You should find it to be either 68mm or 73.6mm.

High Volume Oil Pump: High volume oil pumps move more oil than standard oil pumps. This helps keep the upper end lubricated. If you have an oil cooler, it can also push oil through it more effectively. Installation of an oil pump requires drilling the oil passage as well as a lot of disassembly.  It is a big undertaking, and not recommended for the faint of heart.

Oil Cooler: Oil coolers are designed to keep your engine temperatures lower, by cooling the oil. Cooler engine temperatures can aid in extending the life of your engine, as well as keeping it from losing horsepower due to heat. Oil coolers will work with stock engines, but are much more effective after the addition of a high volume oil pump.

Engine Swap: Engine swaps are another option for getting more power. There are many 120cc and 125cc engines that will bolt in. If you are looking for more power, but don't wish to pull apart the engine, this may be a good choice for you. You can often find packages including a larger carb, CDI, clutch cable, and anything else you will need to swap engines. Of course, once you swap engines, you can add performance parts to it as well. Some people have built the 120 engines to exceed 160cc.

If this engine group cannot satisfy your needs or wants, you can also choose a different style of engine. This is very likely to require lots of welding and fabrication skills, and is not for the inexperienced.

Nitrous / NOS Kits: Adding Nitrous or NOS is a relatively quick and easy way to obtain serious top speed.  Here are a few pointers to how NOS works:

Nitrous Oxide works in what way?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 molecules of nitrogen and one molecule of oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process, at about 570 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by enabling more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "cooling" effect by reducing air intake charge temperatures by 55 to 85 degrees F.

Is engine reliability affected by nitrous?

A: The solution is choosing the correct horse power for a given application. A kit that uses the correct power rating does not usually cause increased wear. As the power increases, so do the loads on the various parts that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the parts to handle them, added wear and tear takes place. You should use nitrous only at wide open throttle...use it only when you need it, not all the time.

A Nitrous System will give me how much performance improvement?

A: An improvement for many applications can be anywhere from 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile. Factors such as engine size, traction, weight distribution, gearing, etc. will affect the final results.

Can I use Nitrous Oxide on a stock engine?

A: Yes. The most important aspect is not to overindulge. Choosing the correct kit for any given application is essential; a good rule of thumb to follow is never exceed 50% power increase to your current engine output.

Is nitrous oxide flammable?

A: No. Nitrous Oxide by itself is non-flammable.

Does nitrous oxide cause detonation?

A: Not directly. Detonation can be the result of many things, such as a lean condition caused by not adding enough fuel, too low of an octane of fuel, and tmustoo much ignition advance. Most of our kits work well with stock type engines running on premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing application where higher compression ratios are used, a higher fuel octane be used as well as more ignition retard.

Will I need to modify my fuel system if I use nitrous?

A: Most stock fuel pumps will work for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to flow check to see if your pump can supply enough fuel to your existing fuel system, as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions.

Can 89 or 93 octane fuel be used for street type nitrous oxide applications?

A: Yes. Many Nitrous systems are designed for use with pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.

When is the best time to use nitrous?

A: At wide open throttle only. Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation.

As compared to other performance options, what are the advantages of using Nitrous?

A: Dollar for dollar, you can't buy more performance with less money than with nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be achieved while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal riding.

* Super Bike Restrictor Removal
There are many types of restrictors being used. These may vary between models. Follow the instructions below to get maximum speed out of your super bike. Because of import laws, these are often required to be installed from the factory.

Step 1 (Removing the carburetor restrictor) RX7 or similar model
Remove the flat head screw from the side of the carburetor that is right next to where the throttle cable connects. If you have a hard time getting to it, you can remove the black plastic air filter cover first.

Step 2 (Removing the carburetor bushing restrictor) RX12 or similar model
Remove the top cover from the carburetor and throttle cable. Pull out the speed bushing on the spring. Re-assemble the carburetor.

Step 3 (Removing the hand throttle restrictor) Various models
Remove the two screws holding the throttle assembly together. Remove the metal half moon piece which is restricting the throttle from turning the full amount. Re-assemble the throttle assembly.

Step 4 (Adjusting the carburetor fuel mixture)
The carburetor is set to run rich from the factory. After break-in, you can adjust the fuel mixture screw on the side of the carburetor for a more lean mixture. The easiest way to do this is turn the screw 1/4 of a turn at a time and ride the bike until you find a good setting. When the bike is running rich it will feel flooded at top end. If the bike is to lean it will be starving for gas and kill out. Adjusting the fuel mixture screw is at your own risk. Running the engine too lean can cause it to over heat and seize.

Still Want More Info? Pick up a copy of a shop manual for Honda OHC 50-110cc single cylinder engines…this is a great place to start learning to work on or modify your Super Pocket Bike







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